The Wonder of Aphrodisias – Part 2

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Update

By Glenn Maffia

Previously, I concentrated on the early explorations of the magnificent site of Aphrodisias leading up to the fortuitous find by Ara Güler during the late 1950s, which beguiled Professor Kenan T. Erim to embark on the most extensive of archaeological excavations.

Within my scope this week I should like to relay the history of the city which made this place quite unique as all was slowly unfurled before Professor Erim’s eyes, leaving him to establish a chronological timeframe to decipher.

Gleaming marble

Aphrodisias is to be located in ancient Caria, an indigenous land which thrived before the colonisation of the Greek tribes to exploit the resources and markets of Asia Minor.

In today’s geographical terms it is 180 kilometres (112 miles) due east of Ephesus and 100 kilometres (62 miles) west of Pamukkale. Hopefully these shall be landmarks familiar to you all.

As I explained previously, there were many architectural fragments strewn throughout Geyre village where the children once played and which they showed to Ara Güler.

Most prominent of these was probably the Temple of Aphrodisias, which Professor Erim noted he could see from afar upon his initial arrival at the site. I am unaware if he had access to the plan of the city meticulously mapped by the Dilettanti Society of London in 1812.

Though, whether he did or not, the Professor diligently sifted through the soil revealing, initially, the Temple of Aphrodisias, finding on his way many statues and sarcophagi. It was soon obvious this city’s public facilities were built entirely of marble.

It is that gleaming marble which is so prominent in its proliferation and the exquisite craftsmanship of such a high quality that one doesn’t require an imagination to vividly conjure this city was a living and breathing school of sculpture.

The fact this material would have once been painted, is today, lost to our aesthetic sensibilities. The source of the marble material was positioned a mere 2-4km to the north of the city within the undulating hills with a gradient comfortably shallow enough to conveniently transport the stone down into the city. Can you imagine an entire city devoted to the Arts? I can certainly visualise such a Utopia.

History of the site

Human settlement upon the Aphrodisias site dates back several thousand years to the Neolithic period. Occupation continued through the following Chalcolithic period and on throughout the Bronze and Iron Ages. Though these settlements were humble affairs being identified as being placed upon the two hills of the eventual city; the hill which now plays host to the theatre we see today and also Pekmez Hill a little further to the east.

Legend conveys that the original settlement was named Lelegonpolis, later taking the name Megapolis. Later still, the name Ninoi was adopted, after the Assyrian ruler Ninus.

The Assyrians had migrated westwards to escape the Medes and Babylonians whom had destroyed their ancient capital of Nineveh (in present day Iraq). They brought with them the cult of Ishtar, the Mesopotamian goddess of love. When the western seaboards were either colonised by various Greek tribes or extensively Hellenised, as Caria was by King Mausolus, the goddess Ishtar became the Hellenised version, Aphrodite.

Documentary evidence

The first historical documents referring to Aphrodisias are to be found in the history of Caria written by Apollonius a native of Aphrodisias during the 3rd century BCE.

Though it is not until the 1st century BCE that Aphrodisias finally emerges as a fully-fledged city. During 82 BCE (Rome had, by then, taken control of this land) the Roman dictator Sulla (138-78 BCE) presented to the Temple of Aphrodite a golden crown and a double bladed axe, the latter being considered as holy within Caria.

These prestigious bequeaths illustrate the growing importance of the city within the Roman hegemony in Anatolia. It is also supportive of evidence the nearby marble sources were being quarried and the art schools producing sculpted work were gaining renown.

By 30 BCE, during the reign of Augustus, it was clear that Aphrodisias had become a prosperous and respected city. Though the export of raw marble is not supported by evidence it does appear the finished sculptures were in high demand.

Today the sculptural works remain in abundance. The architectural buildings are articulate and elegant, while still emanating an echo of that strength and dominance of the Roman Empire, the plentiful sarcophagi lavishly ornamented, while the figurative statues within the museum are utterly exquisite.

When I visited with my friends we spent Day 1 ambling around certain sections of the city (always leave some to be explored at a later date) and Day 2 captivated for hours in the excellent museum, before reluctantly returning to Didim. I highly recommend a similar itinerary.

Professor Erim

Professor Kenan T. Erim was employed by New York University when he was asked to conduct some preliminary field trips to the Aphrodisias site and continued to be employed by that institution when the vast extent of the findings became obviously apparent.

The archaeological work which continues upon the site remains under the supervision of New York University. Thus, it is crystal clear how and why the Aphrodisias excavations, maintenance and inventory logging differ from the ‘traditional’ mode of working in this country.

Most distinguishing is the academic sensitivity of precise maintenance and well-researched replacement of extant fragments of architecture and sculptural elements within a historically accurate representation.

These archaeologists do not desire to create a pastiche for the gratification of indifferent tourists; their objective is to rebuild the ambience into our artistic senses. I have never perceived any abhorrent concrete upon this site.

I feel I am ‘banging on the same drum’ here, but whilst these grotesque approximations persist to defile these once wondrous sites I shall not succumb to kowtowing silence. History and the precision of that discipline is paramount, not only in my thoughts, but to those generations not yet born. Do not belittle a once glorious past into a ‘theme park’. Take care, reverence and humility to the ancient’s incredible achievements.

Aphrodisias, under the auspices of the New York University, is a shining light. As is the academic controlled discipline being conducted by the German Archaeological Institute at Didyma, though they do so exasperate me in the utter dearth of forthcoming information into the public domain. Let these be the template of a responsible excavation and maintenance process within the future.

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