Words: Chris Evans

Images: Jay Jean Jackson

We have waited patiently through a few false dawns for Didim’s Temple of Apollo to reopen to the public. A walk around the incredible ruins as night descended is something many have looked forward to for some time. In the end, the opening caught everyone by surprise as there was no big announcement about one of our special pieces of history in the area.

The evening started with excitement to see how the work had been carried out. This soon dissipated into annoyance. For those with a MuzeKart, I have some bad news. It won’t be accepted for evenings at the Apollon Temple. Apparently, even though you’ve paid for your MuzeKart, it only applies to Turkish citizens who still have to pay 100TL to enter. For everyone else, it’s 300TL. Why this is the case when a MuzeKart has been purchased is confusing. It is something that needs to be investigated as it is clearly unfair. If you don’t have a MuzeKart, the entry ticket is 6 euros, or around 300TL.

I’d love to say things improved, but they didn’t. The new concrete concourse is dreadful. The top surface is already coming away, leaving holes across the entire surface. It’s about as close to fitting in with the Temple surroundings as the new works get. The walkways at the bottom of the metal and wooden stairs are so out of keeping with the Temple it beggars belief.

Thankfully, those initial impressions and disappointment faded as the rest of the Temple has, rightly, been left untouched. It is still an inspiring sight. For those who read Glenn Maffia’s columns, you will spot so many of the things he highlighted over the years, from games to other symbols and interesting facts.

As the sun fell, the temple felt different. There was an ethereal feel to it as shadows crept from behind pillars and a new vision of this sacred place was born. It was then shattered as the lighting doesn’t come on gradually. At the flick of a switch, you are blinded by white spotlights. Thankfully, the orange ones are far easier on the eyes. Once your eyes become accustomed to the light, it is an amazing sight as the columns and walls all take on a different ambience to anything I’ve ever experienced at the Temple before.

Sadly, the whole temple is not open. You cannot walk into the centre, which, I imagine, would have been even more inspiring at night than during the day. It’s a shame and, maybe, explains why the opening wasn’t as widely publicized as many feel it should have been.

I left with mixed feelings. The bizarre orange light under the staircase is not helping. Surely white strip lighting would have been safer, and orange lighting focusing on the Temple more appropriate.

Standing in the temple as the sun set was inspiring. It’s a feeling that will live with me for a long time, and I’m incredibly grateful we all now have the chance to experience it. Do I feel the work done has been worth the time and money? Sadly not, and the debacle at the ticket office is something that needs to be addressed quickly.

All-in-all I’m disappointed. Some of the mystery has left this sacred place. It’s wonderful we can all now experience it at night, but it could have been done in a far more sympathetic way.

More details:

Daytime 8.30 to 18.50

Evening 1900 to 2130 box office closes 2100

€6 per person, or equivalent in Turkish Lira